Sunday
11Oct2009

Maserati Good Times - Nikon D300S Test of Video and Stills

My D300S arrived yesterday, and I felt compelled to go out and give it a run for it's money, buy testing out video quality of fast moving objects (driving with it showed a bit of rolling shutter problems, but acceptable until something comes along that doesn't have that problem) and low light performance. I completely forgot to set the default type of photos to RAW, so the images in the video and posted below are straight-out-of-camera JPEGs, I simply brought the ones posted into Lightroom to resize and add the watermark. Hope this is at least a little interesting to you, I definitely had fun, and was surprised no cops showed up to ask me what I was doing laying on the ground next to a nice Maserati with a bunch of flashes gripped onto sign posts and railings.

 

Check out the video below or click this link to view the higher resolution version: 

 

 

 

Wednesday
16Sep2009

The Do's and Don't of Designing a Camera: a list for manufacturers that need help...

This post is directed at the consumer level camera divisions of ALL manufacturers of cameras (and some things could be directed at any consumer electronics manufacturer). These are just a sampling of my gripes and praises. I keep up to date with all the point and shoot model out in the market and play around with all the new ones when they come out...I get tired of the designers making the same stupid choices, so my rant is here for anyone to read and hopefully pass on points they agree with to the people responsible for giving us the junk that most compact cameras have become.

Have an idea that you don't see here? Let the rest of the class know down in the comments!

 

1) DO use a metal thread for the tripod mount, have it well supported the the frame of the camera. Kodak! Seriously, if I try to attach one of your cameras onto a tripod, the threads are going to strip. I also had a camera that had the tripod threading mount pop out of the camera because it wasn't properly attached to the frame, this is just ridiculous.

2) DO give the camera to your grandmother and see if she can use it before you finalize the UI...this is directed at you Nikon/Fuji/Olympus...your UI's really suck. Why have a "Menu" "Home" and "*" buttons? What should be under "Home" what should be under "Menu"? There should be a "Menu" that has a easy to understand sub-structure, like "System Settings" for clock, formatting, sounds, ect. and a separate area for mode specific settings.

3) DO give consumers what they need, not what they say they want. Did you give your kid the cookie because it asked or did you give it vegetables to eat? When a consumer says "smaller with more zoom", give it more zoom, but make sure you don't sacrifice image quality for it...Nikon/Olympus, do you hear me? A wafer thin camera cannot physically have a good sized senor and lens with 5-10X optical zoom without sacrificing too much image quality...therefore those cameras should not be produced. You may sell some, but no one that buys one of them will buy a camera made by your brand ever again! (and definitely won't recommend your brand to their friends and family!)

4) DO test to make sure your auto-white balance actually can figure out the difference between daylight and tungsten. Ask Canon for help if you can't figure it out.

5) DO leave digital zoom turned off by default. It's confusing to people. If they need more zoom, tell them to buy one of your more expensive models. Doesn't that sound good to you?

6) DO include GPS. This is a very cool feature that will eventually be standard in all brands. It does drain battery life though, so have it off by default and easily switched on by the user. Please don't make this crippled GPS like what Eye-Fi offers, which requires a WiFi hotspot to know where it is.

7) DO use brushed metal, and/or semi-gloss plastics for the outer shell of the camera. Glossy metal and plastic shows way too many finger prints and looks bad. Glass screens also are easier to clean than plastic screens. Plastics just make it possible for fingerprints to be visible half a mile away.

8) DO offer models that vary in color. If you must offer non-standard colors, don't pick "puke yellow" or "nuclear waste green", show it to 10 random people on the street and if even 1 thinks it looks bad, don't use that color.

9) DO remember that underwater cameras need to give good images out of the water too, that means don't put in folded optics, even if it makes it a little thicker. If you're trying to take pictures underwater, a bigger camera means you don't lose grip and have it sink to the bottom.

10) DO make sure when the average Joe holds your camera they don't cover the lens or the flash with their fingers, if even 2 out of 10 people do...it's back to the drawing board.

 

 

1) DON'T keep adding megapixels, the high ISO noise is out of control, compact cameras take worse images now than they did 3-4 years ago. Find something new to get consumers believing is the "Holy Grail" of image quality...like maybe a good lens?

2) DON'T add 20-30 "scene modes" to the camera for marketing purposes. Just make the image quality good and the UI easy to use, and salepeople will sell it for you. No one uses the scene modes...at least not on purpose. If your hunk of plastic has 30 scene modes and the other model has 15...your's is just more unnecessarily cluttered with useless buttons, knobs or menu options.

3) DON'T bother with exposure compensation buttons on $100-200 cameras. Exposure compensation is very useful...but consumers don't know how to use it and Casio...you shouldn't need to use exposure compensation at -.07EV just to get a properly exposed picture. Ask 10 people at Starbucks what exposure compensation is, and they'll tell you it has something to do with celebrities and the tabloids...

4) DO build cameras with better lenses. A faster lens is better than having "6400 ISO"...it might cost a little more but customers won't hate the camera they just bought when they're taking photos of their kid's birthday party. Even with a sensor 6X the square area of the average compact camera, ISO 6400 is a realm still avoided at all costs with pro-DSLRs!

5) DON'T use USB based charging systems! If you're going to have a rechargeable battery, make sure it's an external charger and doesn't use a AC cable, just have the charger plug right into the outlet. Even if consumers say they want to charge the camera directly from the wall...they're wrong. It causes cameras to short out if there is a power surge and they can't charge a battery while they're using their camera to take photos. If they say they want to charge it through their computer...they're wrong! People will loose their USB cable within days, leaving them with no way to charge their camera. A block the size of the camera that holds their battery to charge it will not get lost for months or years! 

6) DON'T make proprietary accessories if you can avoid it. If you must use proprietary cables for cheaper licensing or just after-the sale revenue, make it easy for consumers to find the cables for purchase on your site.

7) DON'T advertise a brand name lens like Schneider or Carl Zeiss if they're not actually manufacturing the lens for you and simply designed it for you or if you're just licensing the name, that's being disingenuous to the end user who thinks that the name Carl Zeiss means something, when the lens is manufactured in Tawain by another OEM. I'm not saying that the lens is bad, just that BMW doesn't buy Hyundai's and slap the BMW logo on it and say they make it.

8) DON'T include a large detailed manual. A quick-start guide is sufficient and an interactive computer based guide will help consumers a lot more than a 300 page book they'll never read.

9) DON'T use touch screens unless you have buttons as well. They're small cameras that are easy to drop, a consumer shouldn't have to use one of their hands to tap the screen. If you must put a touch screen in, make sure the grip is big enough so the user doesn't knock it out of their hand. Sony? Nikon? Bueller?

10) DON'T falsely advertise resolutions. If you're going to advertise HD video. Have it record HD video, not up-rezed SD wide screen. Don't interpolate 12 megapixels from an 8MP sensor. This goes to not only every camcorder manufacturer, but all the brands that advertise on QVC and the shopping channel selling "14 megapixel" cameras for $79.99.

 

Think of something I missed or disagree? Let the rest of the class know in the comments!

Thursday
16Jul2009

Great Falls National Park - Variable Neutral Density Filter Experiment

Wow, the past few weeks have been slammed busy for me, but I DID manage to squeeze in some personal shooting time (instead of spending the time blogging). I headed down to Great Falls National Park to test out a theory I had. A company called Singh-Ray makes a very expensive product called the Vari-ND filter ($350), which basically allows you to control how much light actually comes through the front of your lens. It doesn't effect color, depth of field or grain, and it doesn't directly effect shutter speed, but the reason why it is cool is that you can use much longer shutter speeds than you normally would be able to otherwise. A normal neutral density filter is just a dark piece of glass that reduces a fixed amount of light, the Singh-Ray filter allows you to adjust as needed. After watching the little animation on their site I said to myself... "that has to be through polarization!" so I decided to try and test my theory in order to save myself the $350. I tried two circular polarizers, but it didn't work as I expected, so I did a bit of research to discover that to make your own variable ND filter you need a circular polarizer and a LINEAR polarizer on top of the circular.

The circular polarizer on the bottom allows your autofocus camera to still autofocus and meter somewhat accurately because a circular polarizer is made of two layers, the top which polarizes the light and then the bottom layer that scatters the light a bit to allow your phase detection autofocus sensor to work properly.

I ordered myself a linear polarizer and gave it a good field test and it works great with one little caveat. If you stop the light down all the way as far as you can with this setup, there is a significant color shift to the blue spectrum. This effect is only seen if stopped down to 8 or 9 stops, which is rarely needed. I told a friend of mine about this issue and he's trying to come up with a solution that eliminates this color shift, but until then give it a go if you need to do some long exposures.

Here's some of my favorites from the two times I went down to Great Falls National Park this week. Most of these exposures were between 6 and 15 seconds long, which is what causes the normally rough looking water to look so creamy and smooth. None of these images have touched Photoshop, just some basic curves and white balance adjustment in Lightroom. If you want to do this yourself and already have a nice circular polarizer, all you'll need is a cheap linear polarizer and you're good to go!

The full rez gallery and other photos are at www.noahhayes.net/greatfalls


This shows you how rough this water looked without the long exposures! This was without the Variable ND filter. These guys kept climbing up the hill and riding the rapids down. Maybe I should get an underwater enclosure for my D3 and try it sometime?

Also we stumbled upon a little snake that was nice enough (or scared enough) to actually let me swap out my telephoto for a 105 VR Macro to get up close and personal (about 5 inches away from the front of my lens!)

The Variable ND array of B+W (my favorite) filters. Taken with iPhone 3GS

 

Tuesday
30Jun2009

Smithsonian Shoot

The other day I went to hang out in DC and give a little hands-on training to a new photographer, Jermaine. I hadn't been to the Smithsonian in FOREVER, so we hit up the Natural History Museum to give him some challenging indoor light to get under control. After the museums closed (way too early if you ask me) we went out on the Mall and took some exterior shots of the other museums and the Capitol. Here's a couple from the day.


Little off camera flash for an environmental portrait of a new photog

This is a 15 second exposure, to make most of the crowd "disappear"

News Crew reporting on the Holocaust Museum shootings that day

Unfortunately the day we went was the day the shooting happened in the Holocaust Museum

Monday
01Jun2009

Motorcycle: Speedlite Style

One of my friends just bought a motorcycle and since I had a few hours of downtime, we decided to go out and take some cool night-time photos of it. We really want to do some motion shots on the highway, but didn't want to risk causing an accident during a weekend night (I already had my flashes attached to the car with Justin clamps and everything before I even thought about the problems we might cause!)...maybe later this week we'll get around to it. Anyway, I just wanted to share some of my favorites from tonight along with some setup shots so you can see where light was coming from (didn't think of taking setup shots until about halfway through the shoot). Enjoy!

Unfortunately all I had on me to take set-up shots with was my iPhone...not exactly the best quality at 10PM with little to no good light! As you can see, I was using three speedlites: two SB800 flashes and one SB900. Two were triggered using Pocketwizards and the other triggered by SU-4 mode on the SB800. All the flashes had different powers of CTO (Color Temperature Orange) gels and the camera was set on Tungsten white balance. This gives a nice gradient of different shades of normal to cool tones, which work well for glossy metal.

 

When taking pictures on shiny metal objects (like cars and bikes) make sure to place your flash where you won't get a direct reflection...except maybe on chrome accents