Entries in nikon (6)

Sunday
Oct112009

Maserati Good Times - Nikon D300S Test of Video and Stills

My D300S arrived yesterday, and I felt compelled to go out and give it a run for it's money, buy testing out video quality of fast moving objects (driving with it showed a bit of rolling shutter problems, but acceptable until something comes along that doesn't have that problem) and low light performance. I completely forgot to set the default type of photos to RAW, so the images in the video and posted below are straight-out-of-camera JPEGs, I simply brought the ones posted into Lightroom to resize and add the watermark. Hope this is at least a little interesting to you, I definitely had fun, and was surprised no cops showed up to ask me what I was doing laying on the ground next to a nice Maserati with a bunch of flashes gripped onto sign posts and railings.

 

Check out the video below or click this link to view the higher resolution version: 

 

 

 

Thursday
Jul162009

Great Falls National Park - Variable Neutral Density Filter Experiment

Wow, the past few weeks have been slammed busy for me, but I DID manage to squeeze in some personal shooting time (instead of spending the time blogging). I headed down to Great Falls National Park to test out a theory I had. A company called Singh-Ray makes a very expensive product called the Vari-ND filter ($350), which basically allows you to control how much light actually comes through the front of your lens. It doesn't effect color, depth of field or grain, and it doesn't directly effect shutter speed, but the reason why it is cool is that you can use much longer shutter speeds than you normally would be able to otherwise. A normal neutral density filter is just a dark piece of glass that reduces a fixed amount of light, the Singh-Ray filter allows you to adjust as needed. After watching the little animation on their site I said to myself... "that has to be through polarization!" so I decided to try and test my theory in order to save myself the $350. I tried two circular polarizers, but it didn't work as I expected, so I did a bit of research to discover that to make your own variable ND filter you need a circular polarizer and a LINEAR polarizer on top of the circular.

The circular polarizer on the bottom allows your autofocus camera to still autofocus and meter somewhat accurately because a circular polarizer is made of two layers, the top which polarizes the light and then the bottom layer that scatters the light a bit to allow your phase detection autofocus sensor to work properly.

I ordered myself a linear polarizer and gave it a good field test and it works great with one little caveat. If you stop the light down all the way as far as you can with this setup, there is a significant color shift to the blue spectrum. This effect is only seen if stopped down to 8 or 9 stops, which is rarely needed. I told a friend of mine about this issue and he's trying to come up with a solution that eliminates this color shift, but until then give it a go if you need to do some long exposures.

Here's some of my favorites from the two times I went down to Great Falls National Park this week. Most of these exposures were between 6 and 15 seconds long, which is what causes the normally rough looking water to look so creamy and smooth. None of these images have touched Photoshop, just some basic curves and white balance adjustment in Lightroom. If you want to do this yourself and already have a nice circular polarizer, all you'll need is a cheap linear polarizer and you're good to go!

The full rez gallery and other photos are at www.noahhayes.net/greatfalls


This shows you how rough this water looked without the long exposures! This was without the Variable ND filter. These guys kept climbing up the hill and riding the rapids down. Maybe I should get an underwater enclosure for my D3 and try it sometime?

Also we stumbled upon a little snake that was nice enough (or scared enough) to actually let me swap out my telephoto for a 105 VR Macro to get up close and personal (about 5 inches away from the front of my lens!)

The Variable ND array of B+W (my favorite) filters. Taken with iPhone 3GS

 

Tuesday
Jun302009

Smithsonian Shoot

The other day I went to hang out in DC and give a little hands-on training to a new photographer, Jermaine. I hadn't been to the Smithsonian in FOREVER, so we hit up the Natural History Museum to give him some challenging indoor light to get under control. After the museums closed (way too early if you ask me) we went out on the Mall and took some exterior shots of the other museums and the Capitol. Here's a couple from the day.


Little off camera flash for an environmental portrait of a new photog

This is a 15 second exposure, to make most of the crowd "disappear"

News Crew reporting on the Holocaust Museum shootings that day

Unfortunately the day we went was the day the shooting happened in the Holocaust Museum

Monday
Jun012009

Motorcycle: Speedlite Style

One of my friends just bought a motorcycle and since I had a few hours of downtime, we decided to go out and take some cool night-time photos of it. We really want to do some motion shots on the highway, but didn't want to risk causing an accident during a weekend night (I already had my flashes attached to the car with Justin clamps and everything before I even thought about the problems we might cause!)...maybe later this week we'll get around to it. Anyway, I just wanted to share some of my favorites from tonight along with some setup shots so you can see where light was coming from (didn't think of taking setup shots until about halfway through the shoot). Enjoy!

Unfortunately all I had on me to take set-up shots with was my iPhone...not exactly the best quality at 10PM with little to no good light! As you can see, I was using three speedlites: two SB800 flashes and one SB900. Two were triggered using Pocketwizards and the other triggered by SU-4 mode on the SB800. All the flashes had different powers of CTO (Color Temperature Orange) gels and the camera was set on Tungsten white balance. This gives a nice gradient of different shades of normal to cool tones, which work well for glossy metal.

 

When taking pictures on shiny metal objects (like cars and bikes) make sure to place your flash where you won't get a direct reflection...except maybe on chrome accents

Saturday
May022009

Fun with Smoke and Strobes

When I'm browsing the web the photos that always catch my eye are abstract images that you have to think about what YOU see in it. Although the subject matter itself may be very plain, what it represents or resembles jumps out at you immediately. It's sort of looking at an ink-blot test, everyone sees something different, based on their own imagination and experiences.

What I wanted to try is to take some abstract photos and then modify them slightly to guide your interpretation of what you're seeing. You might see something completely different than what I see in the images below, so please let me know what YOU see in the comments.

I had a blast taking these images and immediately seeing objects, figures, and entire scenes appear from abstract whisps of smoke (and no, it was not THAT kind of smoke!). These were all taken with two SB-800's and an SB-900 using large Joss Sticks (I know nothing about incense, but read online that these types produce the best type of smoke for photography purposes). Each flash had a set of flags/gobo's to keep the flash from hitting the background and other places where I didn't want it.

This was my first attempt at this kind of photography, but I'd like to think that some of these are at least half-decent results from a first go at smoke photography. Hope you enjoy!

 

Rip Tide

The Joker

Lady on the Water

Out of the Bottle

Eagle's Lunch

Flaming Escape